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Contents 7 Introduction 11 List of symbols 15 Chapter 1. Basic concepts of potential wave theory 23 1.1 Waves propagating over a horizontal bottom 23 1.2 Wave energy 31 1.3 Radiation stresses 33 1.4 Irregular waves 35 REFERENCES 38 Chapter 2. Wave boundary layers 39 2.1 Introduction 39 2.2 The momentum integral method for the turbulent wave boundary layer 42 2.3 Detailed modelling of the wave boundary layer 56 2.4 Streaming 66 2.5 Energy dissipation in the wave boundary layer 71 REFERENCES 74 Chapter 4. Waves in the surf zone 105 4.1 Wave-breaking 105 4.2 Modelling of variation of wave height and water level in the surf zone 111 4.3 Turbulence in the surf zone 134 REFERENCES 147 Chapter 5. Wave-driven currents 151 5.1 The longshore current 151 5.2 Further developments of longshore current models 159 5.3 Wave-driven currents on a non-uniform beach profile 171 5.4 Low frequency oscillations 183 REFERENCES 188 Chapter 6. Current velocity distribution in the surf zone 192 6.1 Normally incident waves, shear stress distribution 193 6.2 Normally incident waves, the undertow 200 REFERENCES 214 Chapter 7. Basic concepts of sediment transport 216 7.1 Transport modes 216 7.2 Sediment properti

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PRASAD

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EN