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List Of Symbols -- 1. Basic Concepts Of Potential Wave Theory. 1.1. Waves Propagating Over A Horizontal Bottom. 1.2. Wave Energy. 1.3. Radiation Stresses. 1.4. Irregular Waves -- 2. Wave Boundary Layers. 2.2. The Momentum Integral Method For The Turbulent Wave Boundary Layer. 2.3. Detailed Modelling Of The Wave Boundary Layer. 2.4. Streaming. 2.5. Energy Dissipation In The Wave Boundary Layer -- 3. Bed Friction And Turbulence In Wave-current Motion. 3.1. Simple Considerations On Changes In The Shape Of The Velocity Profile And Increase In Bed Shear Stress. 3.2. The Integrated Momentum Method Applied To Combined Wave-current Motion. 3.3. Refined Modelling Of The Wave-current Motion -- 4. Waves In The Surf Zone. 4.1. Wave-breaking. 4.2. Modelling Of Variation Of Wave Height And Water Level In The Surf Zone. 4.3. Turbulence In The Surf Zone -- 5. Wave-driven Currents. 5.1. The Longshore Current. 5.2. Further Developments Of Longshore Current Models. 5.3. Wave-driven Currents On A Non-uniform Beach Profile. 5.4. Low Frequency Oscillations -- 6. Current Velocity Distribution In The Surf Zone. 6.1. Normally Incident Waves, Shear Stress Distribution. 6.2. Normally Incident Waves, The Unde

Author

Jorgen Fredsoe & Rolf Deigaard

Publisher

World Scientific Publishing Company

Published

1992

Language

EN

ISBN

9789810208400

Subjects

Science, Anthropology, Stem