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Deep-water spectral wave steepness offshore mainland Portugal by Mendes, Diogo (author);Oliveira, Tiago C.A. (author) is a Engineering article available to read on EtoBox.

What is Deep-water spectral wave steepness offshore mainland Portugal about?

Deep-water spectral wave steepness (s m ) is used in several ocean engineering activities to characterise sea states. However, difficulties in maintaining wave buoys offshore the continental shelf results in a lack of deep-water s m variability studies based on long-term field observations in high-energetic environments. In this work, we analysed s m variability between 1200 and 1900 m water depth offshore mainland Portugal (North Atlantic Ocean) based on field measurements recorded between 2009 and 2020 at three different locations. Results show similar s m variability at the three sites with mean, minimum and maximum values of 0.031, 0.004 and 0.072, respectively. A decrease in the monthly average s m to 0.027 is observed for all locations during September and October. Values of s m displayed a decreasing tendency with a rotation of the mean wave direction towards the North. Under storm conditions, s m ranged between 0.020 and 0.060 and no correlation was found between s m and other wave parameters, such as significant wave height, mean wave period or mean wave direction. For the most severe storms, values of s m were in general larger than 0.030, which points out that storm wave

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Author

Mendes, Diogo (author);Oliveira, Tiago C.A. (author)

Publisher

Elsevier BV

Published

2021

Language

EN

Field

Engineering (Physical Sciences)