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Swash Zone Sediment Transport, Step Dynamics and Morphological Response on a Gravel Beach by Gerhard Masselink; Paul Russell; Chris Blenkinsopp; Ian Turner is a Earth and Planetary Sciences article available to read on EtoBox.

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State-of-the-art morphodynamic field data were collected from Slapton Sands (UK), a fine-gravel beach (D 50 = 2-10 mm), over a 10-day period under a range of wave-tide conditions, comprising a mixture of southerly swell and easterly wind waves (H s = 0.5-1 m; T s =4-8 s; tide range = 3-4 m). Over the field period, the upper beach experienced accretion and berm formation during tides with low steepness, swelldominated wave conditions (H/L b 0.01), and underwent erosion during tides dominated by high steepness wind waves (H/L N 0.01). Surprisingly, the intertidal beach showed an opposite trend with sediment losses under swell conditions and an increase in sediment volume due to wind waves, and suggests that upper beach morphological change can be decoupled from the overall sediment budget. A submerged accretionary feature (the beach step) grew and migrated onshore on the rising tide, typically reaching a maximum relief of around 0.5 m, then gradually decreased in prominence while migrating offshore as the tide fell, resulting in little net morphological change. The step was better developed during the falling tide than the rising tide and, through its control on the swash hydro-and s

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Author

Gerhard Masselink; Paul Russell; Chris Blenkinsopp; Ian Turner

Publisher

Elsevier Science; Elsevier ; Elsevier BV (ISSN 0025-3227)

Published

2010

Language

EN

Field

Earth and Planetary Sciences (Physical Sciences)