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What is Understanding Free-Surface Waves about?

This document discusses ocean waves and wave breaking. It provides information on causes of ocean waves including wind, tides, and earthquakes. Key concepts covered include the dispersion relationship, particle orbits under waves, phase and group velocity, and how these concepts apply in shallow and deep water. Equations of motion, pressure, and boundary conditions for linear water waves are derived.

Author

Ananth Surya Teja

Language

EN