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What is Authenticity: Wine and the Ambivalence of Modernity about?

The modern science of oenology emerged at the end of the nineteenth century, as vintners learned to remediate flawed grape must with sugar and a preservative to produce better wine. The advent of oenology was at the heart of an acrimonious dispute that pitted against each other two of Russia’s most prominent and influential vintners: Prince Lev Golitsyn, whose estate vineyard on the southern shore of Crimea produced some of the best wines in the world around the turn of the century, and Vasilii Tairov, the editor of the journal Winemaking Bulletin. At issue were the characteristics that made fine wine authentically European: was it appropriate to take oenological shortcuts, or was the production of fine wine a form of artisanship, done by methods passed down over many generations?

Author

Stephen V. Bittner

Publisher

Oxford University Press

Published

2021

Language

EN